There’s something hopelessly romantic about the idea of Sicily in the summer: sunbathing on rocks in gorgeous blue waters; picking out fresh produce at the market in the morning; strolling along quaint cobblestone streets lining an unfathomably blue sea, granita or gelato in hand; admiring awe-inspiring historic ruins that you seemingly stumble upon everywhere you go. Delightful seaside Siracusa–Southeastern Sicily’s main province–has all of this and more. On the Ionian coast, Siracusa is the perfect starting point for a summer escape to Southern Sicily, with plenty of other UNESCO World Heritage protected towns, stunning landscapes, and massive ruins not too far of a drive away.
Siracusa was once the largest city in the ancient world–bigger than Athens and Corinth. Fascinating, right? Intellectuals flocked to it and it was the birthplace of comic Greek theatre. When Romans breached the city’s defences, taking control in 211 BC, it ushered in a stark decline.
Today, the beautiful, energetic Baroque city that tourists flock to was largely the product of an urban renewal project after the devastating Val di Noto earthquake in 1693. Siracusa was named a provincial capital following the unification of Italy in 1865, and it is now the home and vacation destination for many wealthy northern Italians and Europeans.
Ortygia is the island city that sits across from mainland Siracusa, and is its most delightful, if somewhat swanky, corner. Lined with rocky beaches on the Ionian Sea, Ortygia is home to some beautiful architecture, amazing shopping and dining options, and an eponymous market that might just have stolen my heart.
Is anything more Italian than a smelly, colorful, loud morning market? Siracusa’s Ortygia Market is a dream come true for any market-loving travelers like me. It is full of fresh produce and fish in such intense colors and varietals. It’s a pure delight to wander through and explore.
Within Ortygia Market, Caseificio Borderi is a place of legend, known for its remarkable sandwiches made with care, love, and the finest, freshest ingredients. We went as it was first opening for the day and watched in awe as the master sandwich-maker made the most ornate, original, delicious-looking sandwiches I’ve ever seen for the customers ahead of us.
When it was our turn to order, we told him to make us 4 different sandwiches that are favorites–his “specials”. It’s worth it to come in just to watch these folks make sandwiches–they do it with such passion and creativity, and make such mundane ingredients come to life. It is amazing.
I thought the sandwiches couldn’t possibly be as good as they looked by the end of it but, lo and behold, they were the greatest sandwiches I’ve ever eaten. Massive and very rich, but absolutely delectable. When I dream of sandwiches now, it’s of these and I wait for the day when I can go back.
For an escape to Siracusa: come for the history and the beaches and the stunning Sicilian beauty, but stay for the sandwiches!
Anna Logs It 